Sparky/Gas Hob Question

Lazkir

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tested with a 13a... nothing moving. I have no idea where that cable goes... equally, don’t know where the fuse for the hood would be.. I suspect all this is was a DIY job

It does sound like a nightmare, maybe get a leccy in?
 

Lazkir

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I almost want to watch this on a live stream, its got you've been framed written all over it with Vinesh getting a belt of 240v with much COVID lockdown hair raising hilarity!

Thanks, that's just reminded me I have a video of myself to submit to YBF, is it still £250 if it gets shown?
 

jim8flog

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Could it have a junction box Lower down from the plug serving both oven and hob ignition.?
Not to clever but depends who fitted it.
whose installation are you talking about ? mine or teh OPs

I know what mine is because I designed where it all went. to fit in with a re layout of the kitchen. When I first moved in to my house looked like the kitchen had been designed by a builder who had never cooked, cleaned or washed up in their life.
 
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Mudball

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It's common to see the hood socket within the confines of the ducting, if you have a chimney hood .:)
So currently, it looks like i have to open that double socket and check if the fuse inside that is blown... planning to do it when everyone goes to work tomorow.. so if I dont report back in the evening,. pl ping and check.. @Rooter know to find me
 

Fade and Die

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So currently, it looks like i have to open that double socket and check if the fuse inside that is blown... planning to do it when everyone goes to work tomorow.. so if I dont report back in the evening,. pl ping and check.. @Rooter know to find me

There is no fuse inside a double socket... in fact there is no double socket! It’s a cooker switch with a 13A plug, but If you want to have a look inside (and I seriously recommend you do not) please turn off ALL the power at your fuse board.
 

Bunkermagnet

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So currently, it looks like i have to open that double socket and check if the fuse inside that is blown... planning to do it when everyone goes to work tomorow.. so if I dont report back in the evening,. pl ping and check.. @Rooter know to find me
The Fuse is in a plug top, or main consumer unit. Easiest way to check that socket is either a plug in tester, or better still just plug something small and light into that same socket(like a hairdryer or similar)
Without being rude, might I suggest it’s safer to get an expert in to diagnose the problem for you?
 
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Mudball

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The Fuse is in a plug top, or main consumer unit. Easiest way to check that socket is either a plug in tester, or better still just plug something small and light into that same socket(like a hairdryer or similar)
Without being rude, might I suggest it’s safer to get an expert in to diagnose the problem for you?
Tnx to u and @Fade and Die .., i agree.. maybe i miscommunicated... for the two gang... the socket is running fine as i plugged a hair dryer and it works. I was wondering if there is a fuse inside for the big 'cooker' switch? I havent opened it yet. The main MCBs in the kitchen are all up and running..

TBH, i am a bit disappointed that it was not the 3A socket fuse that is blown. Would have been an easy win
 

clubchamp98

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That dosnt look like an OEM style moulded plug .
It makes me think there is another box somewhere that either splits off for both igniters or has another fused unit.
It means it should be visible to wire the oven and hob, my guess it’s behind the oven. Or next cabinet.
If it’s the old type wiring it should be on its own circuit breaker in the main box. ( for electric cookers).
If it’s just for the igniters it might just be on the ring main.
 
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Mudball

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That dosnt look like an OEM style moulded plug .
It makes me think there is another box somewhere that either splits off for both igniters or has another fused unit.
It means it should be visible to wire the oven and hob, my guess it’s behind the oven. Or next cabinet.
If it’s the old type wiring it should be on its own circuit breaker in the main box. ( for electric cookers).
If it’s just for the igniters it might just be on the ring main.
Bloody DIYers..
 

jim8flog

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So currently, it looks like i have to open that double socket and check if the fuse inside that is blown... planning to do it when everyone goes to work tomorow.. so if I dont report back in the evening,. pl ping and check.. @Rooter know to find me
If the cable from the socket is not powering the hob then most likely it is powering the extractor fan.

The hob cable may either be going to another socket inside or behind one of the cabinets, it may be 'double wired' in to the cooker switch part of the socket or double wired on the back of the oven.

Working as test engineer the first thing I would be doing is checking that there is power to the hob and then I would know the if the fault is with the hob itself or the power source.
 

jim8flog

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We have a Baumatic Gas Hob... its 15 yr old and suddenly the ignition seems to have stopped working on all 4 of the hobs.. none of the cookers are lighting up. There seems to be power in the ring unit since the oven underneath it working. I tried to google it but no luck. It was put in by the prev owner so no docs available either. It is a Buamatic B68SS and cant find anything online. Mrs wont let me touch it unless i know what I am doing.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/213999/Baumatic-B68ss.html?page=8#manual

This says the electric has to be connected to a double pole switch so should not have been connected by a standard plug. The most likely connection is by doubling up on the back of the cooker switch.
 
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Mudball

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If the cable from the socket is not powering the hob then most likely it is powering the extractor fan.

The hob cable may either be going to another socket inside or behind one of the cabinets, it may be 'double wired' in to the cooker switch part of the socket or double wired on the back of the oven.

Working as test engineer the first thing I would be doing is checking that there is power to the hob and then I would know the if the fault is with the hob itself or the power source.
No.. i unplugged that socket and the chimney/extractor still works... the oven still works.. So that must be for some other point. No other big appliance going into that, since Dishwasher, fridge, microwave connected to other things.. I wont be surprised if the previous owner, ran it into another extension board. Fair play to him that the system has worked fine for 15 odd years.


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/213999/Baumatic-B68ss.html?page=8#manual

This says the electric has to be connected to a double pole switch so should not have been connected by a standard plug. The most likely connection is by doubling up on the back of the cooker switch.
So it is likely that it is the cooker switch. Does the cooker switch have a fuse or does it run via the main fuse. I know there is power coming into that double pole set up since the socket next to it is live.
 
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